A continuation of the post I had before on haiku poetry by on Matsuo Bashō (松尾 芭蕉). These were both featured in the children’s TV show Nihongo de asobo, which is a nice Japanese TV

Disclaimer: These translations are my own amateur efforts, and should not be considered professional translations at all. Please use at your own risk. :)

夏草や  (なつくさや, natsu kusa ya)
兵どもが (つわものどもが, tsuwamono domo ga)
夢の跡  (ゆめのあと, yume no ato)

To me, I would translate this as “Summer grass is all that remains of a soldier’s dreams”, which has a clearly Buddhist message about impermanence, but also about the end result of ambitions, violence and so on. The や (ya) at the end of the first line is a kind of “filler” syllable sometimes used by haiku authors for dramatic pause (and maybe to achieve the 5-syllable requirement ;) ).

閑やさ  (しずかやさ, shizukayasa)
岩にしみ入る  (いわにしみいる, iwa ni shimi iru)
蝉の声  (せみのこえ, semi no koe)

This one evokes a nice feeling of late summer or early autumn. I would translate this one as “Peace: a silverfish crawls into a rock, the sound of cicadas”. The word しみ, according to the online dictionary, refers to silverfish insects, and cicadas are famous insects who make loud buzzing noises during the warmer months when they come out of hiding. In Japan, it’s common for kids to go “bug collecting” in the summer, looking for things like cicadas and rhinoceros beetles.

Enjoy!

Starting today there are four weeks left until the JLPT test in the US! Hopefully by now if you’ve been studying, you have been able to absorb the material and practice it. Or have you? If your just starting the JLPT now, you may find yourself in over your head, unless you’ve had extensive Japanese experience before and just need to refresh your memory.

Regardless of your situation, now is a good time to make some last minute preparations:

  • Don’t forget to get some No. 2 pencils (or HB pencils in the UK)!
  • Do you have your test voucher?
  • Do you have your identification ready? Review the JLPT test site for valid identification.
  • Do you know where the test area is? Have you confirmed directions and transportation? Accommodations?
  • Have you taken any practice tests yet? If not, do so right away! You can find old tests available for purchase online. This is worth the money spent.
  • If you did take practice tests, did you evaluate your weak points? Listening? Reading Comprehension?
  • If you can, focus on your weakest area right now. Don’t spend too much time on your strong points, or you get diminishing returns.

Before the day of the test, you might do one of two things depending on your personality:

  1. Relax and get lots of sleep.
  2. Cram all night, just in case.

Whatever works for you, just remember some advice:

  • Sleep is very important. It will keep your mind focused, and not wandering. Caffeine is not a very good substitute.
  • Eat a good meal before the test! Nothing too sweet, or you will get tired.
  • Get to the test site early, so you won’t be rushed, or risk getting late.
  • And most importantly, if you fail the test, you can always take it again, but this time with a lot more experience!

Although the test is a month away, you should now take time to prepare for the test itself. You’ve had time to study, so like a good athelete, visualize the day of the test, imagine success, and you’ll do fine.

Best of luck!

Although good weather is long gone (unless you live in the Southern Hemisphere!) there is one drink my wife and I frequently enjoy: mugicha (麦茶), or roasted barely tea. As the name implies, this has nothing to do with tea leaves and is instead made with roasted barley. The taste is very earthy, roasted and best of all has no caffeine. Mugicha tastes really good chilled, so it’s a popular summer drink in Japan and similarly in Korean. Our little family drinks it all year though.

Despite the unusual style it’s thankfully easy to get in Seattle, and back in Ireland at Asian food stores.1 2 I can’t say I have a recommended brand myself (others are welcome to add opinions). I just usually picked something that looked good and authentically Japanese. Usually they come in large boxes that contain many “bags”. These are not small tea bags, but much larger. To use them, put one bag into a pitcher of water, and leave it in the refrigerator overnight. By morning, you have a nice, concentrated pitcher of mugicha. It’s probably too strong to drink straight (unless you’re my wife!) so pour some into a glass of water and enjoy.

I found it useful to also take the concentrated mugicha and pour it into a smaller water bottle I can take to work. When mixed with “water cooler” water, it makes plenty for you to drink all day. :)

One word of warning: mugicha can go rancid, so if you buy it, make sure to use it up fairly quickly or else. I didn’t know that, and while living in Ireland with my wife in Japan, I had a bunch of mugicha I didn’t finish. I drank some (possibly rancid) mugicha and it didn’t taste very good. I didn’t get sick thankfully, but it’s a good idea to listen to food warnings more carefully. :-p

I wanted to talk about mugicha for quite a while but didn’t find the time to write the post until recently. Summer’s long over, but ask any Japanese person and they’ll tell you that mugicha inspires lots of memories of summer. The supposed health benefits of decreased stress are a nice bonus if true. Frankly since I started mugicha to work a few weeks ago, I lost the urge to drink soft drinks from the vending machine at work. No joke. I had a hard time beating that habit for years, sometimes I succeeded, sometimes I lost the willpower. But lately, I never miss it. Mugicha is that good in my opinion. :)

P.S. As linked above, this blog is an excellent overview of food and Japanese culture.

P.P.S. By the title, you probably thought I would talk about drinking places like izakaya (居酒屋) or preferred beverages found therein. Let’s just say that I prefer not to drink.

1 Compared to Seattle, Dublin was a much more tea-drinking society (probably owing to British influence) than coffee. This made very useful omiyage gifts for my wife’s family and friends when we visited Japan that year. :) My wife still misses the good tea and such.

2 By the way, if you’re looking for a good Asian food store in Dublin, I highly recommend the old Asian Market on Drury St. Their selection varies a lot depending on what gets imported at the time but their variety is good and prices reasonable.

Naoko, a Japanese mom over at “Heenai Heenai”, has a great post about local festivals in Japan, particularly the one in her hometown. Great pictures, and good stories. I wanted to share this with a wider audience because it is a great example of something many Westerners don’t get to see: a local Shinto festival in the countryside.

When I talked before about Shinto Kami, I mentioned that many kami were very local, and so many places in the countryside developed very specialized rituals and festivals for their kami. However, despite the variety of rituals, some things are very common, very Shinto to these festivals:

  • Use of o-mikoshi as explained below.
  • Usually takes place in summer or autumn, often to celebrate harvest.
  • Expresses the village’s gratitude to the local kami for their protection over the year.
  • Supplication to the kami for another good year ahead.

In Naoko’s post, she talked about the o-mikoshi (お神輿), which is a kind of portable shrine. In Ian Reader’s book on Shintoism he describes the common practice where the kami is “transported” in a ceremony to the portable shrine, then carried aboard a portable shrine through town, with lots of noise, drinking, and excitement. The shrines are often pretty large, so this is a big team effort that can last all day. Whether the kami is real or not, it’s a day for the town to gather together as a community, and celebrate the season, while carrying on an ancient tradition.

Westerners usually don’t get to see such things because most live in large metropolitan areas where festivals are less common, or more touristy, but I often hear of foreign-exchange students living in remote areas, so I would love to hear some stories if you have them. I think these festivals, large and small, reflect a lot about Japanese religion and spirituality that can’t easily explained in textbooks, so sometimes pictures and stories are more helpful. :)

Anyway, go visit Naoko, enjoy the pictures, and say hi!

Recently, I was contacted by a colleague, “R”, I knew back on E-Sangha1 asking for language-translation help to read this website. This website belongs to a temple called Dainenbutsuji (大念沸寺). This is the head temple of the Japanese Buddhist sect called the Yūzū Nembutsu Shū (融通念佛宗), which is a very interesting Pure Land Buddhist sect with some parallels to the more widely known Jodo Shu and Jodo Shinshu sects.

The sect was founded by a monk of the then powerful and state-sanctioned Tendai sect named Ryōnin (良忍) (1072-1132). Ryonin lived at a time when Tendai Buddhism had absorbed a great deal of Pure Land Buddhist teachings from China, but the practices were still not widespread outside of the aristocracy at the Heian court, or among monks themselves. So, a number of monks tried to bring Buddhism to a wider audience, including Ryonin.

Ryonin was deeply influenced by Huayan thinking from China, based in turn on the Flower Garland Sutra (kegonkyō, 華厳経), which is a very long and difficult text, but stresses the importance of interdependence. All phenomena, all things and people, exist only in relation to every other thing, like the glittering nodes in the Jewel Net of Brahma.

Ryonin surmised that when one practices Pure Land Buddhism, and recites the nembutsu (Amitabha Buddha’s name), it benefits the whole world. Thus he called it yūzū nembutsu (融通念仏) or “circulating nembutsu”. The idea is both brilliant, and at the same time sensible. If reciting the nembutsu helps to make one a better person, by virtue of Amida Buddha’s compassion and light, this kind of “rubs off” on others, who in turn pass on the “good vibes” until it benefits everyone in the long-run. I think I am over-simplifying things quite a bit, but Ryonin’s teaching emphasizes the fact that all beings are related to each other, and what we do has a profound impact on others, for better or for worse. So, as the Pure Land teachings became popular among the general public, Ryonin combined this with the wisdom of Huayan Buddhism to make one’s personal practice have more meaning and benefit. It exemplifies the beauty of Pure Land Buddhism, plus the profound wisdom of the Flower Garland Sutra teachings.

Still, I think Ryonin was a bit ahead of his time, and the Yuzu Nembutsu sect is not that large as an institution. However, Ryonin’s ideas, and the synthesis of Huayan and Pure Land Buddhism appear again and again in later generations. Shinran, founder of Jodo Shinshu Buddhism, takes the same teachings, but offers a different spin on them. Where Ryonin emphasizes the practice as embodying the Huayan teachings, Shinran taught that the nembutsu was an acknowledgment of the fact that Amida Buddha himself is the embodiment of the Huayan teachings. You can see this for example in the famous passage in the “Commentaries on ‘Notes on the Essentials of Faith Alone’” which states:

Nirvana has innumerable names. It is impossible to give them in detail; I will list only a few. Nirvana is called extinction of passions, the uncreated, peaceful happiness, eternal bliss, true reality, dharma-body, dharma-nature, suchness, oneness, and Buddha-nature. Buddha-nature is none other than Tathagata [Amida Buddha]. This Tathagata pervades the countless worlds; it fills the hearts and minds of the ocean of all beings. Thus, plants, trees, and land all attain Buddhahood.

I think both Ryonin and Shinran arrive at almost the same teachings, even if they differ on emphasis, but it’s fascinating to see both minds at work.

Anyway, getting back to the Yuzu Nembutsu sect, the head temple’s website has some interesting sections, though none of it in English. I can honestly only read small parts, but one part I liked was this page, which included some sound files for liturgy in the Yuzu Nembutsu sect. The liturgy is actually quite familiar to those of the Tendai or Jodo Sects. The first purple button is the Shiseige hymn (called Juseige in Shinshu), posted on my blog. I am not sure what the second button is, but the third button is a special, melodic recitation of the nembutsu. The 甲 kanji (“kan”) means things like a high voice, or high-class. So, the nembutsu here is slow, and very melodic.

I am not sure if it’s related to the famous “five-tone nembutsu” style developed by the Chinese Pure Land master Fa-chao (Fǎ Zhào, 法照),2 centuries earlier and popularized in Tendai practices by Ennin in the 9th (?) century in Japan. It certainly might be the same one, but others with more knowledge can help shed light on the subject.

Anyway, I helped out my colleague a little, though not enough, but I learned a lot from the experience. Pure Land Buddhism is a complex branch of Buddhism, and not something I think Buddhist text books do justice for. Lots of ideas, strains of thoughts, and ways to look at the nembutsu, the Pure Land and Amitabha/Shakyamuni. Hopefully you learned something like I did! Enjoy!

P.S. Trying out the four-post week schedule again (Sun, Mon, Wed and Fri), for a while again. Got a lot of stuff lined up I hope readers enjoy. :)

1 I left E-sangha months ago as I got tired of certain conflicts there between defenders and detractors, and I decided to focus more on Buddhism in the “meat-world” as a certain online friend described it. This seems to have reflected in subtle changes to the blog, as I have come to realize. I am definitely happier these days. :)

2 I prefer Pinyin over Wade-Giles romanization, but W.G. is still the most widely used. The “zh” in pinyin is just a “J” sound for us english-speakers.

In March, as I first took up the challenge of the JLPT certification exam, I hunted the Internet for sources of listening practice for Japanese. I found some good sources, some not so good, but I haven’t given up. I find that in spite of 10 months of study, my listening skills are still lagging behind badly. Things have improved, at least enough to pass the listening section of the JLPT 3 hopefully, but still at a much slower rate than I hoped for. My wife, who learned English, warned me that listening takes a long time to learn, and she is right.

My biggest problem is that when I listen to my wife or her friend, I frequently misunderstand what they said, so my answer sounds kind of non-sensical, or seems like I didn’t listen to the conversation right. So, anything to help get used to hearing Japanese conversation is a big help, and if practiced over the long-term, it will help me reduce mistakes and respond to speakers more naturally. Since I don’t live in Japan, I have to be a little more resourceful and diligent.

Podcasts seem to be a good source for this, since I can listen at work routinely and a good podcast can provide needed exposure to the language.

So, first I tried searching on Google but didn’t find much. Then, I did some playing around on iTunes under the iTunes Store, and they have a nice Podcast section. So I searched for the word “Podcast” in Japanese, which is poddokyasuto (ポッドキャスト),1 and found a lot of content. The Nippon Broadcasting (にっぽん放送) podcast has a good variety of shows, mostly comedy, but other things too, and is frequently updated. That last point is important for a podcast I think, especially if you need to practice listening in a foreign language.2

Comedy podcasts are especially difficult to listen to but in my view they are among the best because they are very conversational, natural and stretch your thinking. Plus they genuinely entertaining so you are more likely to stick with it.

Additionally, here are a few sources I’ve found on the World Wide Web3 that I liked, in no particular order:

  • JapanesePod101.com – Intermediate and Upper Intermediate series. The dialogues are pretty good, but the best part is the off-script banter. At these levels they tend to converse a lot in Japanese, and sometimes things get pretty silly. I like this part, along with the more structured lessons that come with them. Good chemistry among the group.
  • Yomiuri News PodcastYomiuri is a big newspaper in Japan, so this is their daily news feed. Little or no dialogue, but if you ignore the frequent advertisements, it is a good source for listening to very formal Japanese.

Of course, living in Japan is the best approach, but if you can’t do that, then at least get a variety of listening sources, comedy, news, and so on, and rotate frequently until you get accustomed to listening to each one. Variety is the spice of life, as the old saying goes, and you need a lot of exposure and variety to strengthen your listening skills. Don’t underestimate the importance listening skills when studying a language, or you may get frustrated. Best of luck on the JLPT and in learning Japanese!

P.S. Accidentally released this post too early, after a problem with WordPress iPhone app. This has been corrected. Apologies for the confusion.

1 I can’t tell you how much trouble I had figuring out what the word for podcast was. It’s too new to appear in most dictionaries, and I was spelling it in Katakana wrong, but apparently I am not the only one. When I misspelled it in Google, I got a lot of search hits for other foreigners podcasting about Japan, so I guess lots of English-speakers mispell it the same way.

2 I highly recommend the podcast 高田文夫のラジオビバリー昼ず and the オールナイト show. The latter is no longer updated but pretty darn funny and a good example of masculine Japanese. Notice all the rolled ‘R’ sounds.

3 does anyone still say that anymore?

Our final scary story by famous Irish author Yakumo Koizumi is also one of my favorites: Mimi nashi hōichi (耳なし芳一) or “Earless Hoichi”. Actually, to be precise, this is Hearn’s retelling of the story, which appears in several versions in Japanese myth.

I enjoy this story because of it’s historical links to the famous Genpei War and the doomed Heike Clan usually called the Taira Clan in English.1 Of particular note is the final, tragic battle at sea, the Battle of Dan-no-ura where the child Emperor Antoku was drowned by his Heike-grandmother to prevent him from falling into the hands of the Genji (Minamoto) Clan. Even in today’s culture in Japan, the battle and the war between the two clans still remains well-known and a tragic time in Japanese history, so the story by Hearn is likewise very well known.

This story was originally posted on Sacred Texts so credit goes to them. :) I’ve added links to Wikipedia and where relevant kanji and notes.

More than seven hundred years ago, at Dan-no-ura, in the Straits of Shimonoseki, was fought the last battle of the long contest between the Heike, or Taira clan, and the Genji, or Minamoto clan. There the Heike perished utterly, with their women and children, and their infant emperor likewise–now remembered as Antoku Tenno. And that sea and shore have been haunted for seven hundred years… Elsewhere I told you about the strange crabs found there, called Heike crabs, which have human faces on their backs, and are said to be the spirits of the Heike warriors. But there are many strange things to be seen and heard along that coast. On dark nights thousands of ghostly fires hover about the beach, or flit above the waves,–pale lights which the fishermen call Oni-bi, or demon-fires; and, whenever the winds are up, a sound of great shouting comes from that sea, like a clamor of battle.

In former years the Heike were much more restless than they now are. They would rise about ships passing in the night, and try to sink them; and at all times they would watch for swimmers, to pull them down. It was in order to appease those dead that the Buddhist temple, Amidaji, was built at Akamagaseki [modern-day Shimonoseki]. A cemetery also was made close by, near the beach; and within it were set up monuments inscribed with the names of the drowned emperor and of his great vassals; and Buddhist services were regularly performed there, on behalf of the spirits of them. After the temple had been built, and the tombs erected, the Heike gave less trouble than before; but they continued to do queer things at intervals,–proving that they had not found the perfect peace.

Some centuries ago there lived at Akamagaseki a blind man named Hoichi, who was famed for his skill in recitation and in playing upon the biwa. From childhood he had been trained to recite and to play; and while yet a lad he had surpassed his teachers. As a professional biwa-hoshi he became famous chiefly by his recitations of the history of the Heike and the Genji; and it is said that when he sang the song of the battle of Dan-no-ura “even the goblins could not refrain from tears.”

At the outset of his career, Hoichi was very poor; but he found a good friend to help him. The priest of the Amidaji was fond of poetry and music; and he often invited Hoichi to the temple, to play and recite. Afterwards, being much impressed by the wonderful skill of the lad, the priest proposed that Hoichi should make the temple his home; and this offer was gratefully accepted. Hoichi was given a room in the temple-building; and, in return for food and lodging, he was required only to gratify the priest with a musical performance on certain evenings, when otherwise disengaged.

One summer night the priest was called away, to perform a Buddhist service at the house of a dead parishioner; and he went there with his acolyte, leaving Hoichi alone in the temple. It was a hot night; and the blind man sought to cool himself on the verandah before his sleeping-room. The verandah overlooked a small garden in the rear of the Amidaji. There Hoichi waited for the priest’s return, and tried to relieve his solitude by practicing upon his biwa. Midnight passed; and the priest did not appear. But the atmosphere was still too warm for comfort within doors; and Hoichi remained outside. At last he heard steps approaching from the back gate. Somebody crossed the garden, advanced to the verandah, and halted directly in front of him–but it was not the priest. A deep voice called the blind man’s name–abruptly and unceremoniously, in the manner of a samurai summoning an inferior:–

“Hoichi!”

“Hai!” answered the blind man, frightened by the menace in the voice,–”I am blind!–I cannot know who calls!”

“There is nothing to fear,” the stranger exclaimed, speaking more gently. “I am stopping near this temple, and have been sent to you with a message. My present lord, a person of exceedingly high rank, is now staying in Akamagaseki, with many noble attendants. He wished to view the scene of the battle of Dan-no-ura; and to-day he visited that place. Having heard of your skill in reciting the story of the battle, he now desires to hear your performance: so you will take your biwa and come with me at once to the house where the august assembly is waiting.”

In those times, the order of a samurai was not to be lightly disobeyed. Hoichi donned his sandals, took his biwa, and went away with the stranger, who guided him deftly, but obliged him to walk very fast. The hand that guided was iron; and the clank of the warrior’s stride proved him fully armed,–probably some palace-guard on duty. Hoichi’s first alarm was over: he began to imagine himself in good luck;–for, remembering the retainer’s assurance about a “person of exceedingly high rank,” he thought that the lord who wished to hear the recitation could not be less than a daimyo of the first class. Presently the samurai halted; and Hoichi became aware that they had arrived at a large gateway;–and he wondered, for he could not remember any large gate in that part of the town, except the main gate of the Amidaji. “Kaimon!” [開門, "open the gate"] the samurai called,–and there was a sound of unbarring; and the twain passed on. They traversed a space of garden, and halted again before some entrance; and the retainer cried in a loud voice, “Within there! I have brought Hoichi.” Then came sounds of feet hurrying, and screens sliding, and rain-doors opening, and voices of womeni n converse. By the language of the women Hoichi knew them to be domestics in some noble household; but he could not imagine to what place he had been conducted. Little time was allowed him for conjecture. After he had been helped to mount several stone steps, upon the last of which he was told to leave his sandals, a woman’s hand guided him along interminable reaches of polished planking, and round pillared angles too many to remember, and over widths amazing of matted floor,–into the middle of some vast apartment. There he thought that many great people were assembled: the sound of the rustling of silk was like the sound of leaves in a forest. He heard also a great humming of voices,–talking in undertones; and the speech was the speech of courts.

Hoichi was told to put himself at ease, and he found a kneeling-cushion ready for him. After having taken his place upon it, and tuned his instrument, the voice of a woman–whom he divined to be the Rojo, or matron in charge of the female service–addressed him, saying,–

“It is now required that the history of the Heike be recited, to the accompaniment of the biwa.”

Now the entire recital would have required a time of many nights: therefore Hoichi ventured a question:–

“As the whole of the story is not soon told, what portion is it augustly desired that I now recite?”

The woman’s voice made answer:–

“Recite the story of the battle at Dan-no-ura,–for the pity of it is the most deep.”

Then Hoichi lifted up his voice, and chanted the chant of the fight on the bitter sea,–wonderfully making his biwa to sound like the straining of oars and the rushing of ships, the whirr and the hissing of arrows, the shouting and trampling of men, the crashing of steel upon helmets, the plunging of slain in the flood. And to left and right of him, in the pauses of his playing, he could hear voices murmuring praise: “How marvelous an artist!”–”Never in our own province was playing heard like this!”–”Not in all the empire is there another singer like Hoichi!” Then fresh courage came to him, and he played and sang yet better than before; and a hush of wonder deepened about him. But when at last he came to tell the fate of the fair and helpless,–the piteous perishing of the women and children,–and the death-leap of Nii-no-Ama, with the imperial infant in her arms,–then all the listeners uttered together one long, long shuddering cry of anguish; and thereafter they wept and wailed so loudly and so wildly that the blind man was frightened by the violence and grief that he had made. For much time the sobbing and the wailing continued. But gradually the sounds of lamentation died away; and again, in the great stillness that followed, Hoichi heard the voice of the woman whom he supposed to be the Rojo.

She said:–

“Although we had been assured that you were a very skillful player upon the biwa, and without an equal in recitative, we did not know that any one could be so skillful as you have proved yourself to-night. Our lord has been pleased to say that he intends to bestow upon you a fitting reward. But he desires that you shall perform before him once every night for the next six nights–after which time he will probably make his august return-journey. To-morrow night, therefore, you are to come here at the same hour. The retainer who to-night conducted you will be sent for you… There is another matter about which I have been ordered to inform you. It is required that you shall speak to no one of your visits here, during the time of our lord’s august sojourn at Akamagaseki. As he is traveling incognito, he commands that no mention of these things be made… You are now free to go back to your temple.”

After Hoichi had duly expressed his thanks, a woman’s hand conducted him to the entrance of the house, where the same retainer, who had before guided him, was waiting to take him home. The retainer led him to the verandah at the rear of the temple, and there bade him farewell.

It was almost dawn when Hoichi returned; but his absence from the temple had not been observed,–as the priest, coming back at a very late hour, had supposed him asleep. During the day Hoichi was able to take some rest; and he said nothing about his strange adventure. In the middle of the following night the samurai again came for him, and led him to the august assembly, where he gave another recitation with the same success that had attended his previous performance. But during this second visit his absence from the temple was accidentally discovered; and after his return in the morning he was summoned to the presence of the priest, who said to him, in a tone of kindly reproach:–

“We have been very anxious about you, friend Hoichi. To go out, blind and alone, at so late an hour, is dangerous. Why did you go without telling us? I could have ordered a servant to accompany you. And where have you been?”

Hoichi answered, evasively,–

“Pardon me kind friend! I had to attend to some private business; and I could not arrange the matter at any other hour.”

The priest was surprised, rather than pained, by Hoichi’s reticence: he felt it to be unnatural, and suspected something wrong. He feared that the blind lad had been bewitched or deluded by some evil spirits. He did not ask any more questions; but he privately instructed the men-servants of the temple to keep watch upon Hoichi’s movements, and to follow him in case that he should again leave the temple after dark. On the very next night, Hoichi was seen to leave the temple; and the servants immediately lighted their lanterns, and followed after him. But it was a rainy night, and very dark; and before the temple-folks could get to the roadway, Hoichi had disappeared. Evidently he had walked very fast,–a strange thing, considering his blindness; for the road was in a bad condition. The men hurried through the streets, making inquiries at every house which Hoichi was accustomed to visit; but nobody could give them any news of him. At last, as they were returning to the temple by way of the shore, they were startled by the sound of a biwa, furiously played, in the cemetery of the Amidaji. Except for some ghostly fires–such as usually flitted there on dark nights–all was blackness in that direction. But the men at once hastened to the cemetery; and there, by the help of their lanterns, they discovered Hoichi,–sitting alone in the rain before the memorial tomb of Antoku Tenno, making his biwa resound, and loudly chanting the chant of the battle of Dan-no-ura. And behind him, and about him, and everywhere above the tombs, the fires of the dead were burning, like candles. Never before had so great a host of Oni-bi appeared in the sight of mortal man…

“Hoichi San!–Hoichi San!” the servants cried,–”you are bewitched!… Hoichi San!”

But the blind man did not seem to hear. Strenuously he made his biwa to rattle and ring and clang;–more and more wildly he chanted the chant of the battle of Dan-no-ura. They caught hold of him;–they shouted into his ear,–

“Hoichi San!–Hoichi San!–come home with us at once!”

Reprovingly he spoke to them:–

“To interrupt me in such a manner, before this august assembly, will not be tolerated.”

Whereat, in spite of the weirdness of the thing, the servants could not help laughing. Sure that he had been bewitched, they now seized him, and pulled him up on his feet, and by main force hurried him back to the temple,–where he was immediately relieved of his wet clothes, by order of the priest. Then the priest insisted upon a full explanation of his friend’s astonishing behavior.

Hoichi long hesitated to speak. But at last, finding that his conduct had really alarmed and angered the good priest, he decided to abandon his reserve; and he related everything that had happened from the time of first visit of the samurai.

The priest said:–

“Hoichi, my poor friend, you are now in great danger! How unfortunate that you did not tell me all this before! Your wonderful skill in music has indeed brought you into strange trouble. By this time you must be aware that you have not been visiting any house whatever, but have been passing your nights in the cemetery, among the tombs of the Heike;–and it was before the memorial-tomb of Antoku Tenno that our people to-night found you, sitting in the rain. All that you have been imagining was illusion–except the calling of the dead. By once obeying them, you have put yourself in their power. If you obey them again, after what has already occurred, they will tear you in pieces. But they would have destroyed you, sooner or later, in any event… Now I shall not be able to remain with you to-night: I am called away to perform another service. But, before I go, it will be necessary to protect your body by writing holy texts upon it.”

Before sundown the priest and his acolyte stripped Hoichi: then, with their writing-brushes, they traced upon his breast and back, head and face and neck, limbs and hands and feet,–even upon the soles of his feet, and upon all parts of his body,–the text of the holy sutra called Hannya-Shin-Kyo. [般若心経, The Heart Sutra] When this had been done, the priest instructed Hoichi, saying:–

“To-night, as soon as I go away, you must seat yourself on the verandah, and wait. You will be called. But, whatever may happen, do not answer, and do not move. Say nothing and sit still–as if meditating. If you stir, or make any noise, you will be torn asunder. Do not get frightened; and do not think of calling for help–because no help could save you. If you do exactly as I tell you, the danger will pass, and you will have nothing more to fear.”

After dark the priest and the acolyte went away; and Hoichi seated himself on the verandah, according to the instructions given him. He laid his biwa on the planking beside him, and, assuming the attitude of meditation, remained quite still,–taking care not to cough, or to breathe audibly. For hours he stayed thus.

Then, from the roadway, he heard the steps coming. They passed the gate, crossed the garden, approached the verandah, stopped–directly in front of him.

“Hoichi!” the deep voice called. But the blind man held his breath, and sat motionless.

“Hoichi!” grimly called the voice a second time. Then a third time–savagely:–

“Hoichi!”

Hoichi remained as still as a stone,–and the voice grumbled:–

“No answer!–that won’t do!… Must see where the fellow is.”…

There was a noise of heavy feet mounting upon the verandah. The feet approached deliberately,–halted beside him. Then, for long minutes,–during which Hoichi felt his whole body shake to the beating of his heart,–there was dead silence.

At last the gruff voice muttered close to him:–

“Here is the biwa; but of the biwa-player I see–only two ears!… So that explains why he did not answer: he had no mouth to answer with–there is nothing left of him but his ears… Now to my lord those ears I will take–in proof that the august commands have been obeyed, so far as was possible”…

At that instant Hoichi felt his ears gripped by fingers of iron, and torn off! Great as the pain was, he gave no cry. The heavy footfalls receded along the verandah,–descended into the garden,–passed out to the roadway,–ceased. From either side of his head, the blind man felt a thick warm trickling; but he dared not lift his hands…

Before sunrise the priest came back. He hastened at once to the verandah in the rear, stepped and slipped upon something clammy, and uttered a cry of horror;–for he say, by the light of his lantern, that the clamminess was blood. But he perceived Hoichi sitting there, in the attitude of meditation–with the blood still oozing from his wounds.

“My poor Hoichi!” cried the startled priest,–”what is this?… You have been hurt?

At the sound of his friend’s voice, the blind man felt safe. He burst out sobbing, and tearfully told his adventure of the night.

“Poor, poor Hoichi!” the priest exclaimed,–”all my fault!–my very grievous fault!… Everywhere upon your body the holy texts had been written–except upon your ears! I trusted my acolyte to do that part of the work; and it was very, very wrong of me not to have made sure that he had done it!… Well, the matter cannot now be helped;–we can only try to heal your hurts as soon as possible… Cheer up, friend!–the danger is now well over. You will never again be troubled by those visitors.”

With the aid of a good doctor, Hoichi soon recovered from his injuries. The story of his strange adventure spread far and wide, and soon made him famous. Many noble persons went to Akamagaseki to hear him recite; and large presents of money were given to him,–so that he became a wealthy man… But from the time of his adventure, he was known only by the appellation of Mimi-nashi-Hoichi: “Hoichi-the-Earless.”

Happy Halloween!

1 The kanji for Taira 平 can also be read as “hei” as in 平家 “heike” or “Taira Clan”.

Continuing the theme this week, another famous story by <a href="Yakumo Koizumi, also known as Lafcadio Hearn, is the story of yūrei daki (幽霊滝), the “Phantom Waterfall”. I couldn’t find an English version I could post on the blog, so what follows is my summary and retelling of the story from a couple sources, including the Japanese Wikipedia article. I may get some details wrong, but will try to update later once I get a copy of the story again. You can find a copy of it in Japanese in the White Rabbit Press “Graded Reader Series” if you want to try reading it in simple Japanese.

This story takes place in the remote prefecture called Tottori Prefecture (鳥取県) in a village where people farmed flax and hemp during the Meiji Period. In that village there is a waterfall called ryūōtaki (竜王滝) or Dragon King Waterfall, but in the old days was called yūrei daki (幽霊滝) or Phantom (or ghost) Waterfall. This is a story about the old name.

One cold winter night in the village, the women had gathered around the fire in someone’s house and started telling scary stories, with the children bundled up in their arms or sleeping on their backs. As the night wore on, the stories got scarier and then the topic turned to the nearby waterfall which was said to haunted. Beside the waterfall was a lone shrine which served to placate the restless spirit but the villagers still avoided the place unless absolutely necessary. The women dared one another to go there that night and take the donation box (or saisen bako 賽銭箱). Finally a young lady named Okatsu agreed to the dare, but only if the other ladies gave her all the flax they farmed that day. Impressed with her bravery, they agreed and off she went, carrying her little girl on her back to protect her from the cold.

Okatsu left the village and walked down the cold, dark midnight path until at last she reached the shrine. She looked and found no one there, so she crept up to the building and found the wooden box, with a grill on top: the donation box. Nervous, but determined, she picked up the box, tucked it under her arm and began to head home. All of a sudden a deep voice from behind her said, “Hey!” She started and ran away, when the voice called louder, “hey!” She ran harder. The voice boomed “hey!” louder than ever and Okatsu ran home as fast as she could. As she left the woods behind, she heard the voice no more and started to relax. Her heart was pounding, but she had still had the box.

Triumphantly, she walked back to the village and the waiting women. They were shocked and amazed that she pulled off the dare and succeeded. As she sat down to relax, one of the village elders helped Okatsu get her daughter off her back, when she noticed something red all over Okatsu’s back. Confused, the old woman unwrapped the bundle to find the little girl’s arms and legs, but to their horror, the head was missing.

Happy Halloween!

P.S. Another post accidentally got scheduled too early and posted a little before this one. I pushed it back to the intended day. If you missed it, don’t worry. :)

In the spirit of Halloween, let me share a famous scary story by Yakumo Koizumi, known outside of Japan as the Irish author, Lafcadio Hearn.1 I originally read this story in White Rabbit Press’s Graded Reader Series. The story, called Mujina (狢), is originally from Hearn’s Kaidan book which he wrote in 1904. The word mujina just means “badger”, but in Japanese myth, badgers, like tanuki, were mischievous and could use magic to trick and torment people. I’ve added diacritics, kanji and links to Wikipedia for your reference. Enjoy!

Mujina by Lafcadio Hearn (Koizumi Yakumo)
from Kwaidan (1904)

On the Akasaka Road, in Tōkyō, there is a slope called Kii-no-kuni-zaka (紀之国坂), — which means the Slope of the Province of Kii.2 I do not know why it is called the Slope of the province of Kii. On one side of this slope you see an ancient moat, deep and very wide, with high green banks rising up to some place of gardens; — and on the other side of the road extend the long and lofty walls of an imperial palace. Before the era of street-lamps and jinrikishas, this neighborhood was very lonesome after dark; and belated pedestrians would go miles out of their way rather than mount the Kii-no-kuni-zaka, alone, after sunset.

All because of a Mujina that used to walk there.

The last man who saw the Mujina was an old merchant of the Kyōbashi quarter, who died about thirty years ago. This is the story, as he told it :—

One night, at a late hour, he was hurrying up the Kii-no-kuni-zaka, when he perceived a woman crouching by the moat, all alone, and weeping bitterly. Fearing that she intended to drown herself, he stopped to offer her any assistance or consolation in his power. She appeared to be a slight and graceful person, handsomely dressed; and her hair was arranged like that of a young girl of good family. “O-jochū,” he exclaimed,3 approaching her,— “O-jochū, do not cry like that!… Tell me what the trouble is; and if there be any way to help you, I shall be glad to help you.” (He really meant what he said; for he was a very kind man.)

But she continued to weep,— hiding her face from him with one of her long sleeves. “O-jochū,” he said again, as gently as he could,— “please, please listen to me! … This is no place for a young lady at night! Do not cry, I implore you!— only tell me how I may be of some help to you!”

Slowly she rose up, but turned her back to him, and continued to moan and sob behind her sleeve. He laid his hand lightly upon her shoulder, and pleaded:— “O-jochū!— O-jochū!— O-jochū!… Listen to me, just for one little moment!… O-jochū!— O-jochū!”…

Then that O-jochū turned round, and dropped her sleeve, and stroked her face with her hand;— and the man saw that she had no eyes or nose or mouth,— and he screamed and ran away.

Up Kii-no-kuni-zaka he ran and ran; and all was black and empty before him. On and on he ran, never daring to look back; and at last he saw a lantern, so far away that it looked like the gleam of a firefly; and he made for it. It proved to be only the lantern of an itinerant soba-seller, who had set down his stand by the road-side; but any light and any human companionship was good after that experience; and he flung himself down at the feet of the old soba-seller, crying out, “Aa!— aa!!— aa!!!”…

“Kore! Kore!” roughly exclaimed the soba-man. “Here! what is the matter with you? Anybody hurt you?”

“No— nobody hurt me,” panted the other,— “only… Aa!— aa!”…

“— Only scared you?” queried the peddler, unsympathetically. “Robbers?”

“Not robbers,— not robbers,” gasped the terrified man… “I saw… I saw a woman— by the moat;— and she showed me… Aa! I cannot tell you what she showed me!”…

“Heh! Was it anything like THIS that she showed you?” cried the soba-man, stroking his own face— which therewith became like unto an egg… And, simultaneously, the light went out.

Happy Halloween!

1 He is something of a hero to me, for his ability to go to Japan late in life, master the language, and write great stories like so many Irish authors of the past. :)

2 The road still exists today, and in some ways hasn’t changed much. There’s a nice link with photos here.

3 The term ojochū (お女中) was an archaic polite form of address used in speaking to a young lady whom one does not know.

Hello,

This is off-schedule, but a nice chance to take a break and talk about sundry things:

  1. The family and I are settling down in the US after being here for more than a month. I never imagined I would have culture shock coming back to the US, and my hometown, but I did! It took some time to get over this, but life is calming down, and we’re getting ready to move to our new, permanent home at the beginning of November.
  2. Halloween is coming! Our little one is enjoying the festivities. She thinks ghosts are called “Halloween”, so says to her toy ghost “Hi Halloween!”.
  3. Speaking of Halloween, the next 3 posts feature ghost stories by Lafcadio Hearn (or retellings by him). Hope people enjoy! Halloween as a holiday doesnt’ really exist in Japan, but the Obon Season in July-August fills a similar role, so usually ghost stories would be told then, not in October.
  4. Speaking of Hearn, I am reading, among other books, a great book of his called “Kokoro“, which is a collection of his essays on his experiences in 1890’s Japan. Some are very insightful and touching, like the first essay on the murderer whose forced to confront the murdered man’s family. Or his comparisons to the Western religious thought to Buddhism (which he speaks of highly). Other times, he veers into really old-fashioned thinking about racial differences, but clearly he loves Japan and Japanese people, so he’s not critical, but his views seem really old-fashioned by today’s standards.
  5. I’ve also started reading a book about Soto Zen in medieval times. The book is kind of scholarly, but really questions a lot of “neo-orthodox views” held by Western, Zen Buddhists today. I’ve only started, but it’s interesting so far and I hope to write about it soon.
  6. Speaking of posts and writing, I am debating about going back to 4 times a week, as there are just too many good ideas piling up. Once the holiday season at work calms down and we move in, I just do this. Or sooner. I’ll think about it.

Thanks!

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This blog is the reflection of my efforts to explore fatherhood, Buddhism and my love of Japanese culture. Anything useful I can pass along makes the Internet hopefully a better place.

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